We feed only Royal Canin Food to ALL of our family pets!
I give you a "puppy box kit" from Royal Canin containing food and lots of information necessary for dealing with a new puppy. It is Awesome! Royal Canin is the only brand of dog food that I recommend.
They have Vets on staff to help you with any questions too.
I include in your puppy packet an AKC CD with training info & more. I pay for your AKC registration, trial health insurance ( available in most states) as well as the lifetime Microchip Registration with AKC Companion Animal Recovery. Please take the time to watch the AKC Canine Good Citizen DVD and work with your puppy on training.
consider registering your puppy with ACA and APRI as well.
They are all great pet registries and great to show dogs in! Very laid back, children friendly, and judge on breed conformity.
Consult your vet for future needs of probiotics. Most dog food has Probiotics in their food. However, in times of stress, I encourage trying probiotics first. It settles their gut and covers most issues.
I Ask You Call Me Any Time, Day Or Night,,, If EVER You Have A Question!!!!!!!!!!!!
If it is nothing, that is ok, but we won't know until you call...............
I have been asked about the "Super Dog" exercises I give my puppies.
They are also called "Nurological Stimuli" exercises. The best way to inform customers is to have them look it up on the internet.. it is quite interesting how the "super dog" exercises came about. I am more than happy to let you know why we believe it is worth the small amount of time it takes to give them to our puppies. I can just say, we do feel it is worth the effort, for the puppies welfare! ALL our puppies receive them!
We give NeoTech vaccinations. Your vet can check them out on the North American Vetenarium Compendium online and even see the labels of the vaccinations I have given your puppy. We feel they are the absolute best vaccination on the market.
I buy most of my products from Revival Animal Health. www.revivalanimalhealth.com 1-800-786-4751. Dr. B is a wealth of information and has been a huge asset to me in managing my kennel.
Feel free to contact them with any questions as well.
Meanwhile, read the following information to help you prepare.
LOW BLOOD SUGAR
Low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) is a condition often seen in toy breed puppies between the ages of six and twelve weeks. This is often brought on by stress such as going to a new home and new owners. It can happen when a puppy misses a meal, gets chilled, overtired, or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves (sugar levels) of the liver and bring on symptoms.
Symptoms to watch for include listlessness, staggering, weakness, depression, and if not corrected promptly may lead to convulsions, coma, or death.
Treatment is aimed at restoring blood levels of sugar (glucose). Immediately give a teaspoon of Karo syrup, molasses, honey, or sugar in water by mouth. Your puppy should begin improving within 30 minutes. If the pup is in a coma, contact your veterinarian at once, as the pup may need IV dextrose (sugar).
To prevent recurrent attacks see that your puppy eats and drinks regularly and often. Don’t assume that he/she is eating. Feed a good quality puppy food. You can add Karo syrup, molasses, or honey to the food or water.
If you have any questions concerning low blood sugar or about the care of your new family member contact your veterinarian.
Housing Training Your Puppy – Teaching your puppy the right place to “go”
House training is the process of teaching a puppy where to go to the bathroom. Puppies have a natural instinct to not soil their bed or den, and one of the things you will be teaching your pup is to consider your entire house to be a "den".
At the same time, puppies are developing their control over their bodies. When they are very young, they often have very little awareness of their needs and very little control, so they literally must mature some before they can learn to "hold it" and get to the right place.
If they're not sure what's "den" and what's "toilet", and they have little control over their bladder and bowels, how do you teach them? The secret is establish a history of going to the bathroom in the right place and getting rewarded for it, and at the same time preventing any "accidents" from happening.
It's important to know when your puppy will have to go to the bathroom. Puppies also usually must use the bathroom:
- right after waking up
- after a few moments of excited play
- after eating
- after drinking
- a few hours after the last time. As a general rule of thumb, a puppy can go one hour for month-of-age plus one. In other words, a two-month-old puppy can hold his bladder and bowels for 3 hours, a three-month-old for 4 hours, a five-month-old for 6 hours. Many puppies cannot be fully housebroken before they are 6 months old. By that age, they can "hold it" for up to 7 hours.
So here's the secret: Always keep your puppy in an area where it's OK for him to "go". Never leave him where he's not allowed to go. This way he can never make a mistake.
In the real world, that means that the puppy stays in your kitchen (or other parts of the house without carpeting) with newspapers all over the floor. Use doors or baby gates to keep your puppy off of carpeted areas.
You can keep him confined in a crate, pen or other sort of "bed" area where his instincts will keep him from peeing. But remember they can only "hold it" a certain amount of time (see the rule of thumb above), so be sure to let him out frequently to go to the bathroom.
As often as you can - every half-hour is best for a young puppy, at least every hour - take him outside to the area where you want him to go. Take him on leash if you need to. Wait patiently 10-15 minutes out there; be calm and uninteresting so the puppy becomes more interested in sniffing than in playing with you. If the puppy goes to the bathroom, praise him, and maybe even give him a small tasty treat. Now you can let him join the rest of the family "pack" on the carpets for some playtime until the next potty time.
If he doesn't go to the bathroom in the right place, take him back to his crate or bed area or to the newspaper-covered "safe" area, and try again in another 30-60 minutes.
This way you can establish a history of the puppy going to the bathroom in the right place and getting rewarded, while avoiding the possibility of his making a mistake and going in the wrong place. The puppy will learn that it's really worth his while to pee outside, and that inside, on the carpets, is the place for fun and games, and he can only access it if he's "empty".
Immediately after your puppy has peed and pooped, you can usually consider him "empty" and therefore "safe" to leave on your carpet - until you encounter one of the conditions listed above. If your puppy has not yet emptied his bladder somewhere,
do not leave him unsupervised on your carpet! Only leave him in a crate or bed where his natural instincts not to soil his bed will make him hold it, or some place where it's OK if he goes (like on a newspaper-covered floor or outside), or you must be watching him closely. "Watching him closely" means he doesn't have a chance to go when you're not looking.
What if he makes a mistake? If you follow these rules, you won't discover a nasty wet spot or a smelly surprise. You'll catch him in the act. If you see him sniffing or squatting, try to interrupt (not scold) him by saying "Ah, ah!". Pick him up and immediately take him outside. Put him down, and watch him. As soon as he goes outside praise him. Never scold or punish your pup for going to the bathroom in the wrong place. He won't get it. They don't understand pointing, they often don't understand "no", and they won't remember the action of peeing if they're not in the middle of doing it. He'll only learn it's not safe to go to the bathroom in front of you, or to be near you when you're near "the toilet". "Rubbing his nose in it" will only teach him to avoid you.
Clean up any accidents with an enzyme cleaner like "Nature's Miracle", available in any pet store. Also, be sure not to give your puppy too many salty treats (such as rawhide) - the extra salt will make the puppy drink more water, which of course will lead to more needs to pee! (Occasional rawhides are okay, as long as your puppy chews them safely. You might be better off with a stuffed Kong, instead, though!)
It's important to start dog training as early as possible, so your puppy can learn good manners now before he has the chance to develop bad habits. Puppies are like children, all learn at different levels too.
I am sending a sample packet of food with your new puppy care kit. I feed only Royal Canin food and highly recommend it for your puppy too.
Your puppy has been eating Royal Canin puppy food. Please consult your Royal Canin booklet or call for consultation. Puppies need to eat puppy food per the direction of professional vets. Never put a puppy on a diet.
If you decided to use a different brand,
I recommend mixing your choice of food and mine half and half for the first few days. Slowly decrease mine and add more of yours until it is completely on your food. Changing food (and sometimes water) may upset his/her bowels and can cause diarrhea. Mixing the foods
may help eliminate or decrease this problem.
Always consider Probiotics as a solution to digestive problems.
If you consider changing from Royal Canin for Bulldogs, I just ask, why? If your puppy/dog is doing well on one dog food, why would you change brands? I have done extensive research on dog food, if you do consider switching foods, please take the time to call and consult with me first!
Probiotics is a huge key to digestive tract problems. It should be a first consideration! Secondly, the change in water could be an issue, as here your puppy has been on well water. That should be considered as well. Just because it says Holistic, or Organic does not make it better.
Royal Canin has several vets at your disposal, feel free to call them anytime you have a question. I DO!
Chew toys are a must for your new family member. Puppies are still cutting teeth and will gnaw on things. This will also help occupy his/her time and give him/her something to chew on without being destructive to your furniture and/or shoes. Put these in a basket in a certain place and he/she will learn to go to the basket for fun.
My bulldogs enjoy the Kong toys. A towel tied in a knot is a great toy, BUT never shake it up and down while playing with puppy, always - sideways only!
I attended a dog seminar and it was suggested to NEVER let your puppy play with a tennis ball, something in them will deteriorate the dogs teeth. Works kinda like sandpaper on their teeth. So, playing catch is fine, just please don't use tennis balls as a chew toy.
WHEN YOU HAVE TO LEAVE YOUR PUPPY/DOG..To keep separation anxiety at bay, try giving him/her a Kong Toy filled with Peanut Butter or Spray Cheese. It will keep them happy and busy for hours, then they will rest. Each time you have to leave, they will know they are getting a treat, and that you will be coming back. All is going to be ok.
Remember, puppies are like children. They need love, attention, patience, and consistency to grow into a great family member.
INSURANCE FOR YOUR PUPPY
We STRONGLY suggest purchasing insurance for you new puppy.
Here are a couple of suggestions from my customers as far as insurance is concerned:
Pet Smart - Some customers have found the Pet Smart stores in their area offer great plans for vet visits.
Please consider what part of the country you live in, and consult vets to find out the cost of vet visits and possible surgeries.
Bulldogs have a wide range of health problems that a responsible owner must consider before purchasing a bulldog as a family member.
I start my customers off with an AKC Puppy Protection Plan Plus which gives you a 60 day trial AKC Pet Healthcare Plan.
Activation by you is required past the 60 day trial time. This means you will need to call the AKC to give them your information, everything else will be taken care of for you and is included in the purchase price of your puppy. this I have recently learned that the Trial Insurance I provide, is
not recognized in CA or NY
However, the actual AKC Insurance Plan is good in those states, just not the trial part that I pay for. For more information on this plan you can look it up online at
OR call 1-866-725-2747.
WHILE SEARCHING FOR A VET. I suggest choosing a vet that is NOT a "HSVMA" as we will not honor any diagnosis from this type of Vet. As is stated clearly on our purchase agreement. We make no excuses that we are not fans of the Humane Society of the United States, nor any other animal rights organization.
CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY
An airline shipping crate or wire crate provides guaranteed confinement of your puppy for reasons of security, safety, travel, and house training. Dogs love crates! It is their " own private place" - a " security blanket". The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from their ancestors. If the dog would have his choice, I suspect he would take having his life controlled and structured by his owner, rather than being punished later for causing trouble. Failure to housebreak a dog is a major reason many dogs eventually end up in the animal shelter!
The crate when correctly and humanely used, has many advantages for both you and your pet. You can enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog at home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits. You can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when left alone. You can effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities, unwelcome guests, workmen, etc.), over-excited or bothered by too much confusion, too many children, or illness. You can travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and hopelessly lost, and with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along.
Your dog can: 1) enjoy the privacy and security of a "den" of his own to which he can retreat when tired, stressed or ill. 2) Avoid much of the fear/confusion/punishment caused by your reaction when tired, stressed, or ill. 3) More easily learn to control his bowels and to associate elimination only with the outdoors or other designated location. 4) Be spared the loneliness and frustration of having to be isolated ( basement, garage, outside) from comfortable indoor surroundings when being restricted or left alone. 5) Be conveniently included in family outings, visits, and trips instead of being left behind at home. You want to enjoy your pet and be pleased with his behavior. your dog wants little more from life than to please you. A dog crate can help to make your relationship what each of you wants and needs it to be.
CRATE COST: Even the most expensive dog crate is a "BARGAIN" when compared to the cost of repairing or replacing a sofa, chair, woodwork, wallpaper, or carpeting! always buy one that is "airline approved".
CRATE SIZE: A crate should always be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on top. it is always better to use a crate a little too large rather than one a little too small. Measure the dog from the tip of the nose to the base ( not tip) of the tail. Allow for growth by adding about 12 inches. A crate too large can be made smaller by adding a partition of wire, wood, or Masonite. Remember that a crate too large for a young puppy defeats its purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.
LOCATION: Since one of the main reasons for using a crate is to confine a dog without making him feel isolated or banished, it should be placed in, or as close to, a "people" area - kitchen, family room, etc. To provide even a greater sense of security and privacy, it should be put back in a corner. Admittedly, a dog crate is not a "thing of beauty", but it can be forgiven for not being a welcome addition to the household decor as it proves how much it can help the dog to remain a welcome addition to the household.
CRATING A PUPPY:A young puppy ( 8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting a crate as his "own place". Any complaining he might do at first is not caused by the crate, but by his learning to accept the controls of his new environment. Actually the crate will help him to adapt more easily and quickly to his new world.
Place the crate in a "people" area,if possible , in a spot free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source. For bedding, use an old towel or piece of blanket that can be easily washed. Also you might include some freshly worn unlaundered article of your clothing such as a tee shirt, old shirt, etc. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, since its odor may encourage elimination. A puppy should not be fed in the crate and will only upset a bowl of water.
make it clear to all family members that the crate is not a playhouse. it is ment to be a "special room" for the puppy, whose rights should be recognized and respected. You should, however, accustom the puppy from the start to letting you reach into the crate at any time, lest he becomes overprotective of it.
Establish a "crate routine" immediately, closing the puppy in it at regular intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times can guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Give him a KONG chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could get caught in an opening.
The puppy should be shown no attention while in the crate. Dogs tend to be much better psychologists than their owners - often training the owner, rather than the owner training the puppy. Any attention shown to the puppy will simply cause the puppy to believe that whining, crying, etc.., is all that is needed for him to get more attention.
The puppy should be taken outside last thing every night before being put into the crate. Once he goes into the crate, he should stay there until first thing in the morning.
IMMEDIATELY when the puppy is removed from the crate, he should be taken to the chosen area for his bowel eliminations.
Always feed the puppy early enough to allow ample time for the bowel elimination after eating before placing the puppy in the crate. This can be up to one hour, depending on the dog. Simply clock the time after eating until the bowel movement occurs to determine this time interval for your particular puppy.
After the puppy is fully house trained ( usually 8-12 weeks of cage use), you simply can leave the door open ( or take it off) and allow the puppy to come and go as he chooses. If the puppy becomes destructive during his growing phases, it is a simple matter again of confining him in the crate when he is not under your supervision.
Even if things do not go too smoothly at first -
DON'T WEAKEN and
DON'T WORRY! Be consistent, firm, and be very aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble.
When buying a crate,,,remember, Bulldogs grow BIG fast!
CARE OF YOUR BULLDOG
Please consider the Money and Time that goes into owning a Bulldog before you purchase one!!!!!! Really! Think on This!
Face Wrinkles -
I use good old soap and water to wash their faces weekly! I suggest Corn Starch to dry up wrinkles. The Red is Yeast and bacteria grows there. So keep it clean and dry. I do NOT suggest "Angle Eyes" for Bulldogs. It will keep their face nice and white, but it may mask other issues related with the snub nose dogs. Just some attention to weekly face cleaning, the same as brushing their teeth.
Bulldogs generally have clean teeth and low tarter, but why not take that time to brush their teeth and give them that special attention!
I have found that sometimes it is just the time of year that the Red gets bad, and in a week it is gone,,,just learn to read your dog.. they are all different. Some have more Red , all the time... some get it occasionally with allergy season. Some never get Red wrinkles.
TEETH - Papillon's need their teeth brushed and perferably a dental cleaning at least once a year! This is a must!
EARS - The life cycle of an Ear Mite is 3 weeks....Each 3 weeks ( like clock work) clean your dogs ears! I apply a solution of Mal-Acetic Otic to their ears, rub it around, then take a cotton pad and dry it out completly. DO NOT USE Q-TIPS ON A DOGS EARS! Dogs ears are not designed as human ears! I then like to add MITE-A- CLEAR ( I just like it) to keep mites at bay. You may find these at a local Pet Store or contact me for info on where to purchase these products. I have never had any ear problems with my dogs by following these procedures.
BATHS- Give baths as needed, Bulldogs have lots of oil but don't bathe too often to dry them out! I use an organic liquid product. Use what you want, but
NEVER, NEVER BLOW DRY YOUR BULLDOG! That is just a No! No! for snub nose dogs!
NAILS- I clip our dogs nails each 3 weeks when I do their ears, It is easy, just watch for the Red Blood line.. gives you a good chance to check out their paws and give them a good look over for any hidden issues.
DeWormer - I know most of you have a vet put your dog on a great dewormer program. That is great,, and so important! We do not want children or dogs getting worms ( it is not a pretty picture!). Keep up those vaccinations, flea & tick meds, and Rabies shots! All will be happy and healthy throughout your lifes experience!
The Two Types of Pet Allergies:
There are two main types of allergies in dogs and cats:
- Atopic dermatitis—skin reactions to environmental allergens
- Adverse food reactions
Atopic dermatitis looks like a painful skin reaction, and it can be
caused by a number of environmental factors. For example, if your dog is
allergic to a certain type of grass, running across that grass can make
their skin inflamed and itchy. Oftentimes, atopic dermatitis pops up
seasonally, but there are instances in which animals can be particularly
sensitive to environmental allergens within the home.
Adverse Food Reactions
While adverse food reactions are generally rare, some cats and dogs
do have food allergies. In order to test whether a pet has food
allergies, vets will often recommend a 12-week food trial on a brand new
food with a protein source your pet has never eaten before. Owners
should be certain that their pet hasn’t been exposed to the protein
already. If your pet has already been exposed to a protein during a food
trial, you won’t be able to track reliable results and help ease your
If your pet consistently has any of the following symptoms, check
with your vet to see if you should test your animal for allergies:
- Hair loss from scratching
- Redness of the skin
- Recurring skin or ear infections
- Skin lesions
- Gastrointestinal upset
Once you know your pet has allergies, it’s important to make sure
they’re getting the nutrition they need. Formulas with EPA, DHA and
other skin support nutrients will help protect your animal’s raw “hot
spot” from secondary infection. It will also help support overall skin
and coat health for your animal and get them back into beautiful shape.
Also, be sure you check the protein source featured in the food.
Animals are allergic to proteins first and foremost, so if your pet is
allergic to that protein, it will only continue the allergic reaction.
Getting a plan in place with your vet is the first and best step you can take toward making your pet feel better.
I ENCOURAGE EVERYONE TO CHECK OUT THE BULLDOG CLUB OF AMERICA AND THEIR WEB SITE.